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ゴムの木 挿し木の方法を徹底解説!挿し木後の管理方法も

ゴムの木の挿し木 観葉植物

艶々の大きな葉が印象的なインテリアグリーン「ゴムの木」。暑さにも寒さにも比較的強く、初心者でも育てやすい人気の観葉植物です。

すでにご自宅でゴムの木を育てている場合、「挿し木(さしき)」で簡単に増やせるのをご存じですか?今回は、ゴムの木を挿し木で増やす方法を徹底解説します!

ゴムの木 挿し木で増やす方法を解説します【超簡単】

では、さっそくゴムの木の挿し木をおこないましょう。とはいえ基本、挿し木は「切って挿すだけ」なのでとっても簡単。

ただ、挿し木の失敗を防ぐにはいくつかのポイントがあります。挿し木の手順とともに、失敗を防ぐコツも合わせてご紹介します。

ゴムの木 挿し木の手順1「適期は5月~6月頃」

ゴムの木の挿し木に適しているのは5月~6月頃の気温・湿度ともに安定した時期です。適期におこなうことで乾燥による失敗を防ぎます。「できるだけ失敗したくない」という方は、適期に挿し木をおこないましょう。

適期におこなうことは、挿し木する上でもっとも重要なポイントです。生長が旺盛になるこの時期に挿し木することで、冬に備えてしっかりと根っこを張らせられます。

ゴムの木 挿し木の手順2「葉を2~3枚程付けて茎をカット」

できるだけ元気なゴムの木を用意します。穂先から約10cmのところでカットしましょう。葉が1~2枚程付いているのが望ましいです。これが挿し木で株を増やすための「挿し穂」となります。挿し穂は清潔な剪定ハサミで切り落としましょう。

また、挿し穂の断面は斜めにカットし、水を吸い上げるための面積をできるだけ広くとっておきます。

ゴムの木をカット中
挿し穂の切り口から出る樹液に注意

ゴムの木を切ると断面から白い樹液が滲み出てきます。これは「ラテックス」を含む液体で、ゴムの原料になるものです。

ゴムの木の樹液に素手で触れるのは控えましょう。皮膚がかぶれる可能性があるからです。特に、ゴムアレルギーの方は必ず手袋を装着して作業しましょう。

ガジュマルの剪定中

ゴムの木の他にも、「ガジュマル」「ベンジャミン」などからもこの白い樹液が出てきます。挿し木はもちろん、剪定の際にも気を付けてください。健康な株であれば、葉をカットした断面からも樹液が出てきます。

ゴムの木 挿し木の手順3「葉数の調整」

ゴムの木から挿し穂がとれたら葉数を調整します。このままでは葉から水分が多く蒸発するため、発根しにくいです。発根を促すためにも多すぎる葉はカットして減らしておきます。

ゴムの木の挿し穂の調整

ゴムの木の葉の大きさにもよりますが、1~2枚程度を残し、余分な葉は思い切って切り落としましょう。また、切り口から出たゴムの木の白い樹液は水でサッと洗い流しておきます。この樹液は切り口を塞ぐ効果があるため、そのままにしておくと発根しにくくいです。

そのため、元株の方の切り口から出た樹液は「ふき取らずそのまま」にしておいた方がよいでしょう。

ゴムの木 挿し木の手順4「水揚げ」

ゴムの木の水差し

根っこを失った挿し穂は発根するまで水をうまく吸い上げられません。そのため、発根までの体力をつけてもらうために、切り取った挿し穂は数時間、水に浸けてしっかりと吸水させます。

この作業を「水揚げ(みずあげ)」といいます。

ゴムの木 挿し木の手順5「挿し床を用意」

赤玉土(小粒)

挿し木のための土を「挿し床(さしどこ)」といいます。挿し床はどんな土でもok!というわけではありません。発根させるためには「清潔である」「水はけがよい」「肥料分を含まない」の3つの条件をクリアした用土が適しています。

挿し床

市販されている「挿し芽、種まき用の土」、または、「バーミキュライト」などが代用できます。もしくは、パーライトや鹿沼土(細粒)、赤玉土(小粒)等も挿し床に適しています。

気を付けたいのは「使い古した土ではないこと」。挿し穂の切り口からはさまざまな雑菌が入りやすいため、汚れた土で挿し木をすると、雑菌によってそのまま発根せずに腐ることもあります。

用意した挿し木用の土は小さめのポットに入れて、あらかじめ水をたっぷり与えて湿らせておきます。

ゴムの木 挿し木の手順6「挿し穂を土に挿す」

水を吸わせた挿し穂を土に挿します。割りばしやピンセットで土に穴を開け、そこに挿し穂を差し込みましょう。下穴を開けることで、挿し穂が折れたり曲がるのを防ぎます。最後に指で軽く押さえ、安定させたら挿し木作業が完了です。

発根促進剤を使うと挿し木の成功率が上がる

土に挿す前に発根を促してくれる「発根促進剤」を切り口に付着させてもよいです。今回は「ルートン」というパウダー状の発根促進剤を使いました。

ルートンを付着させたゴムの木の挿し穂

ルートンを使う場合、土に挿し穂を挿してから水を与えるとせっかく付着させた粉が流れてしまいます。そのため、あらかじめ土を湿らせておきましょう。

「できるだけ失敗したくない」「適期とは少しずれているため発根するか不安」

このような場合、挿し木作業の際に発根促進剤を使うのも選択肢の一つです。


ゴムの木 挿し木の手順7「風通しのよい半日陰で管理」

あとは風通しのよい半日陰に置き、発根をまちましょう。直射日光は避けてください。

うまくいけば1か月程で発根するでしょう。発根が確認できるまでは土が乾きすぎないよう気を付けます。土の表面が乾いてきたら水を与えましょう。

発根後は、徐々に日当たりの良い場所へ移動させ慣らせます。水は土が乾いたらたっぷりと。生長がしっかりと確認できたら植え替えても構いません。その際は、土に緩効性肥料を混ぜ込んでおくのがおすすめ。

緩効性肥料「マグアンプ」

緩効性肥料を混ぜ込むことで、水やりの度に少しずつ成分が溶け出し「長くゆっくり」効果が持続します。そのため、いちいち肥料を与える手間が省けます。


ただ、ゴムの木は比較的肥料を好む植物です。気温が20度以上のときは、それに加えて月に1,2回程度液肥を薄めて与えてもよいでしょう。

発根した?してない?の確認方法

「挿し穂に触れて抵抗を感じる」「新しい葉が出始めた」などが、挿し木が発根したかしていないかの確認方法です。土から出して直接確認するという方法もありますが、挿し木してから1か月は待ちましょう。

葉が枯れて落ちたりしていなければ、挿し木から2か月くらいはそのまま様子をみるのがおすすめです。

「どうしても気になる…!」という場合は、あまり視界に入らず、手が届きにくい場所に置いておくのがおすすめ。意外と忘れた頃に新しい葉が展開しているものです。

挿し木後の鉢を置くのに適した「半日陰」とは?

よく目にするこの「半日陰」や「明るい日陰」という言葉。具体的には以下のようなことをいいます。

  • 日光の当たっている場所のすぐ隣の陰
  • 木漏れ日のような日光が当たってたり当たってなかったりする場所
    (ルクス値は、約10000~15000)

これらの条件から、挿し木した鉢は基本、風通しの良い屋外に置くのが望ましいと考えられます。

まとめ

今回は、ゴムの木の挿し木の方法をくわしくご紹介しました。思っていたよりも簡単だったと思います。

ゴムの木の挿し木は「土に挿すだけ」でとてもシンプル。しかし、成功率を上げるためにはいくつかのポイントを抑えておく必要があります。

今回の記事をご参考に、ぜひ、ご自宅のゴムの木を挿し木で増やしてみてくださいね。

ゴムの木の挿し木【手順】
  • step1「適期は5月~6月頃」
  • step2「葉を2~3枚程付けて茎をカット」
  • step3「葉数を調整(多すぎる場合は減らしておく)」
  • step4「水揚げ」
  • step5「挿し床を用意」
  • step6「挿し穂を土に挿す」
  • step7「風通しのよい半日陰で管理」
観葉植物
この記事を書いた人
komame083

農業高校で園芸を専門に3年間学ぶ。現在は、熱帯原産の観葉植物を中心に自宅で約50種類の植物を管理。他人は変えられない。しかし、植物は手をかけた分だけ答えてくれると信じている。

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